Thank you for your interest in these replicas! This has been a hobby of mine for many years, but after much debate, I’m actually going to be retiring from prop making this year, 2013, so I’m no longer taking any more orders. I’ll still be posting eBay auctions for the next few months till summer while I finish up the last orders on my list though. So if you really need a set before I completely stop making them, be sure to check out the eBay auctions listed here at the end of each month.
I’ve been making swords and shields for many years now, and I feel that I should probably move on with my life. I’d like to get more into digital art and animation, which is what my degree is in, and not working with resins and paints every day in the garage. I’ve enjoyed making these for many years, but I can’t keep making these the rest of my life, if that makes sense. I’m not sure exactly what I’ll be doing, but, once I move on from swords, I’m sure God will have something planned for me!
I still plan on having DVD tutorials available, which I haven’t quite finished editing together yet, but maybe by this summer I may have them ready. I also have one other idea that may be helpful to fans who still want these replicas, but I’ve yet to finalize any info on that. So just keep checking back if you are interested, and maybe I’ll have more info on it later. Again, I feel sad to turn down fans, but I just can’t keep doing this the rest of my life. Thanks!
Current auction:
Twilight Princess Master Sword
Twilight Princess Hylian Shield
How much do the swords usually cost?
The swords generally range from $400-$600 depending on size, detail, materials, and time required to make them. I have made unpainted versions as well, which usually cost about $100-$200 as they take far less time to make, and don't require good weather to paint outside.
What makes fiberglass so great?
Fiberglass cost more and takes a lot more effort and skill to work with and polish smooth, but yields a much higher and more durable surface than other materials. It also doesn't get brittle and break as easily as clay or sculpy, so it will last for years in your collection. It also resists dents and chips far more than wood, and especially foam. Overall, these props are built for collectors who want an accurate and sturdy replica, but are also ideal for cosplayers who need convention safe blades that look and feel like real steel swords.
What is the difference between painted and un-painted replicas?
The painted ones are the swords currently on the site, and come fully ready to cosplay or wall mount. The un-painted ones however are for fans who don't quite have a budget to afford the finished swords, but would love to have one and are willing to paint it on their own. The paint I use generally costs about $200, and requires a full HVLP system to apply it. Where as the unpainted ones I ship fully finished, primed, and ready to take any paint you wish to apply.
Can you make armor or other accessories?
Swords are the main focus. I have made Ryo's full Ronin Warrior armor, so I know how, but it just takes too long and is really difficult to custom fit pieces to someone I've never seen. Instead, I have an excellent ‘how to’ section so you can learn on your own, or at least see how much work goes into a suit of armor. If you're really intersted in having armor made though... it'll probably be a few thousand dollars for a Hollywood quality set of armor.
How accurate is each prop?
I generally do whatever it takes to make the prop look completely accurate to the original design. I look through many many reference pictures and cross check them to see what the most common traits are since not every drawing is the same. I also try to follow the original concept art, but in certain cases I side with the CG models if that's all that is available. I also try to scale the prop to the character who uses it in the show. So if the sword is as tall as a 4' girl, the sword should be 4' in real life.
How strong are the blades?
The swords are made with rigid urethane resin, steel or aluminum reinforced, finished with durable automotive paint, and generally hold up to average convention handling. Also, since these blades are structurally reinforced, they shouldn't break if dropped or thrown around. However, they may get scratched , chipped, or cracked if beat against hard surfaces. In the event that damage does occur though, a similar color sharpie, or just black, seems to work well enough for disguising any blemishes. Caution though, as with most props, leaving in direct sunlight for long periods of time may cause slight warping.
If you have any questions or comments though, you can reach me at the following email address. Due to the number of emails I receive though, it may take a while before I can reply. Blademaster@fiberglassblades.com
Disclaimer:
- Fiberglass Blades (and myself) assume no responsibility for injuries, damages or loss incurred by anything that is sold.
- Props are for display/cosplay purposes only, and not for fighting. Damage caused by abuse is owners’ responsibility.
- If you do accidentally damage your prop though, I can work with you on repairs.
All images rendered by me, designs copyright to their respective owners
Layout Design -January 2006